At ISE, we talk a lot about hacking: how hackers think, how they operate, and how to defend against them. I talk about this stuff all day, every day, on camera: in virtual keynotes, podcast appearances, and social media content. I also take a lot of video meetings with clients, prospective customers, members of our team, and more.

However, despite being a tech guy, I always struggled with how crappy my video looked, and how crappy my audio sounded.

For years, I wanted to upgrade it – but I kept running into an incredible amount of friction trying to do so. Whenever I tried to setup professional quality video & audio, I struggled to make sense of all the different components, what was compatible with what, and how to configure it all. I was stumped by questions like what should I buy, how much should I spend, and what works for my use case. I bought so many devices that didn’t work out and later had to be returned.

Every guide I found was either too basic or too advanced—nothing hit the middle ground of making professional-quality video simple and accessible.

Well, recently I decided to fully commit to figuring it out.

And I did.

I went from this:

... to this:

This guide shows you exactly how to set yours up too, without needing to be a tech expert.

Is This Guide For You?

Most webcam guides either focus on minor tweaks to built-in or external webcams, which isn’t enough, or go all-in on full production setups, which require too much expertise and money.

This guide is designed to balance the two: for people who want a significant video upgrade without the complexity of a full production studio.

It’s written with a few guiding principles:

• Keep it simple!
• Make this accessible to anyone – not just gadget nerds and AV geeks.
• Make it practical for basic meetings on platforms such as Zoom, Google Meet, or Microsoft Teams, as well as for video appearances that need a higher level of polish – such as virtual keynotes or podcast appearances.
• Make it straightforward to configure and setup.
• Make it easy to maintain over time.
• Keep the pricing reasonable.

If that sounds like something you’re looking for, this guide is for you.

The Key Components of a Quality Video Setup

To look good and sound good on camera, you need to focus on three things:

1. Lighting
2. Camera
3. Mic

For each of these, you need to consider:

• Hardware to buy
• Positioning that hardware
• Software to configure

Let’s examine each. At the end of the blog, I’ve included a summarized shopping list for you.

Plan to budget $1,500-2,500 for this – more if you want to significantly upgrade any of the major components, especially the camera.

Component 1: Lighting

To look good on camera requires being well lit. I spent endless hours researching what that even means. Surprisingly, it’s not as straightforward as it should be, but I’ve figured out the simplest way to do this. Here’s what you want:

• Blackout shades
• Key light
• Fill light (optional)
• Accent lights (optional)

Blackout shades

Good lighting starts with being in full control of it – to do that requires you remove all natural light sources, and then add sources you calibrate and control. You cannot control the sun or the clouds, but you can control light fixtures.

This step is essential, because without it, your lighting will change throughout the day, and will vary based on what the weather is outside. Do not skip this.

You can eliminate natural light by shooting at night, shooting in a windowless room, or using blackout shades. Let’s assume the latter.

• What to buy: Any curtain or shade that is described as blackout. I opted for hexagonal pull downs, because they’re easy to install, easy to operate, good looking, and inexpensive. There are even renter-friendly options that install with tension (no drilling required).
• How to position it: Fully cover window(s), eliminating outside light.
• Software to configure: None.

Note: you may find yourself not wanting to do this.

For the average person whose only use case is video meetings – and not any higher end appearances like keynotes, podcasts, or content creation – you may consider it insane to shut out natural daylight. Who wants to sit in a dark, windowless room all day?

I wanted to have both: light I control and access to natural daylight. That’s why I recommend blackout shades: just draw them when you’re on meetings, and open them when you’re not. If you’re a smart home nerd like me, you can even set this up in a workflow so lighting and shades all take action at the press of a single button.

Key Light

Your key light is your main source of light.

• What to buy: Octagonal soft box, attached to an adjustable bicolor Bowen Mount light fixture, on a tripod or other mount. The softbox diffuses the light nicely across your face, and the Bowen Mount fixture provides the light source itself. You could also get away with a very large ring light (at least 24” diameter) but isn’t quite as good.
• How to position it: Place it at 45 degrees from center (e.g. slightly off to your left or your right). Angle it slightly above, so it shines down on you. If you have a big space, place it several feet away from your face, but if you have a small space, positioning it even just behind your desk works (just reduce the intensity).
• Software to configure: Try to buy a light that has a mobile app, which makes it easy to calibrate temperature and brightness without needing to fiddle with dials on the light itself (which may be hard to access, and cumbersome to see yourself on cam while adjusting the fixture). Adjust the color to be a shade that makes your natural skin color look natural. If you have fair white skin, don’t fall into the trap of trying to hue it to unnaturally warm so you look “tan”. You won’t look tan, you’ll just look badly lit. Adjust the intensity, so you are visible and natural looking – neither too dark nor too washed out.

Fill Light (Optional)

Your fill light is a supplementary light that does not change the quality of the key light and is used primarily to soften shadows that are created by the key light. Most lighting guides describe this as essential, and that is true if you want even lighting. However, if you want a dramatic cinematic effect, defined by sharp shadows on one side of your face, you achieve this with a key light only, and no fill light. (This is known as Rembrandt lighting effect and is the choice I went for. I like the look of it, and I like the simplicity of one less fixture).

(Because it is optional, I excluded from the shopping list at the end).

If you want a fill light, here’s what to do.

• What to buy: An LED panel light, ideally of the same brand as your key light (so they are interoperable, interchangeable, and use the same app). I recommend a light that has 2 important features that enable you to set this up with a smart lighting system such as Phillips Hue or Apple Home kit via a smart plug:
  • Memory function (the light returns to its last setting after cutting power).
  • Does not have built in battery (powered by cable or replaceable batteries, but not an integrated battery).
• How to position it: 45 degrees, on the opposite side of the key light.
• Software to configure: Same comments on app as described with the key light, but with a lower intensity. This should simply reduce or remove shadows, without affecting the light quality from the key light.

Accent Lights (Optional)

These are color lights that add a visually interesting element to the frame. This is not required for a quality setup but is worth exploring if you’re up for it. (Because it is optional, I excluded from the shopping list at the end).

There is a lot of artistic decision-making in what to do here, but I’ll guide you on what worked for me, was easy to configure, and was reasonably priced. Note that a priority for me was to integrate into an existing smart lighting system.

• What to buy: Light strips or other indirect smart lighting.
• How to position it: In ways that create color but are not directly visible, such as under shelves, behind decor, shooting on a wall, etc. Aesthetically there is also a case for having exposed bulbs or even a neon sign. Again, all of this comes down to artistic choice.
• Software to configure: Assuming a smart lighting, you’ll want to configure in an app like Phillips Hue or Apple Home Kit.

Here’s a walkthrough of what happens when you light a scene properly (and what happens when you don’t).

Component 2: Camera

Once you have good lighting, you need a camera that can capture it properly. The goal is to achieve sharp focus, natural depth of field (that pleasing background blur), and high-quality image clarity.

Built-in webcams, even on premium laptops, won’t cut it. Neither will high-end USB webcams. Most external webcams use wide-angle lenses and lack the ability to create background blur, which makes them look less professional.

To truly level up your video quality, you need a proper camera. This is one of the more expensive parts of the setup—costing anywhere from four to ten times the price of a premium webcam—but it makes a huge difference.

A professional camera setup consists of two key components: the camera body and the lens. Some cameras come with an integrated lens, but I chose a separate camera body and lens for two reasons. First, it delivers the highest possible video quality. Second, it allows for future upgrades, so I can swap out the lens or camera body without replacing everything.

Camera Body

A camera body is the main part of a camera that contains the image sensor, processor, controls, and connections. It is the core of the camera system and determines features like resolution, autofocus capabilities, and video recording quality.

The camera body alone cannot capture an image—it needs a lens to focus light onto the image sensor. By choosing a camera body with interchangeable lenses, you can customize your setup for different shooting needs, such as achieving a blurred background (shallow depth of field) or adjusting focal length for different framing options.

For professional-looking video, a mirrorless or DSLR camera body is ideal, as it provides better image quality, more control over settings, and compatibility with high-quality lenses.

• What to buy: a compact and affordable mirrorless camera body that is compatible with various lenses, including fixed focal length options.
• How to position it: Ideally on a tripod just behind your desk, at eye level. Mounting off the desk ensures that the camera won’t shake if you touch your desk. If space is tight, desk mounting works as well – just use a mounting post clamped to the desk (that’s the setup I had to go with). Furthermore, ensure you set it up at eye level – I’d recommend literally measuring the height of your eyes from the ground, and ensure the center of the lens is the same height. This will ensure the angle of the shot looks good (straight on, not up or down), and also that you will be giving the appearance of eye contact when you’re talking, assuming you look directly into the camera.[1]
• Software to configure: You can calibrate the camera right on the body itself, or with an associated app that most cameras have associated. Calibrating your camera is an entire blog unto itself, but you can learn the basics at any number of blogs, such as this one. Set your camera to Manual Video, or whatever your camera calls the mode that is prioritized as a video mode and has all selected settings remain fixed (rather than an Auto mode where settings adjust based on various factors). Play around with the ISO, white balance, and exposure settings until it looks right.

Lens

Once you have the camera body, the next step is choosing the right lens. Your goal is shallow depth of field – that soft background blur that makes a person look professional grade on camera. For that, opt for a fixed focal length (prime) lens with a low aperture (e.g., f/1.8 or lower). The ideal focal length depends on the available space behind your desk—the longer the focal length, the farther away the camera needs to be positioned. To achieve the best background blur effect, position the camera as far away as possible while using the longest focal length your space allows.

• What to buy: If you want to desk mount, you’re probably going to need a 24mm fixed length f/1.8 lens. If you have a few feet available behind your desk, go with a 35mm f/1.8
• How to position it: Attached to the camera body.
• Software to configure: None; whatever you calibrate in the camera takes this into account.

Special settings for MacOS: studio setting and portrait mode

If you’re using a Mac, there’s a built-in feature that can add background blur and studio lighting. While this can be a budget-friendly alternative to a proper camera and lighting setup, it doesn’t produce the same quality. However, it can still enhance an existing setup, depending on how it looks in your environment.

To enable these effects, open a video app like Zoom. Click the video icon in the toolbar to access the dropdown settings. From there, you can toggle options for studio lighting and background blur.

There are some notable drawbacks though. These features rely on software-based effects, which can sometimes look unnatural. The blur can be noticeable around the edges of your profile, especially in areas like hair. It may also distort with certain clothing colors, patterns, or quick movements, such as hand gestures. Because of these limitations, it's best to rely on proper lighting and a good camera whenever possible.

However, feel free to experiment with these settings to see if they improve your setup.

• Studio lighting: toggle on, and then use the slider for how dramatic you want the effect to be
• Portrait: toggle on, and then use the slider for how dramatic you want the effect to be

Component 3: Microphone

Now that you look great on camera, it’s time to sound great too. That requires a few components:

• Microphone
• Analog mixer
• Headphones

Microphone

It should be obvious, but the key to sounding good is having a good mic, properly positioned close to your mouth.

• What to buy: There are two primary types of microphones: dynamic and condenser. Condenser mics are highly sensitive and capture a wide range of detail, making them ideal for studio environments with controlled acoustics. Dynamic mics are more durable and reject background noise better, making them great for broadcasting, podcasting, and live settings. I opted for a dynamic mic because it minimizes background noise while delivering a rich, professional sound—perfect for podcasting and virtual keynotes. I use the Rode Procaster, a broadcast-quality dynamic mic designed for vocal clarity and noise rejection.
• How to position it: About 6” from your mouth, ideally off to the side. Being close means it’ll capture your baritone (and you can level down the capture of any room echo). Nota bene: most people position their mics way too far away, probably because it feels awkward having a mic so close. Don’t do that. Put it close to your mouth.
• Software to configure: None, plug & play.

Analog mixer

Once you have a quality mic, you’ll need to fine-tune your audio for the best sound. An analog mixer is a great way to do this. While mixers have many advanced features, the key functions you’ll use are:

• Adjusting input levels to control how loud you sound to your audience
• Adjusting output levels to control how loud your audience sounds to you
• Shaping your voice with bass, mid, and treble adjustments
• Switching between monitoring your own audio and sending it to your audience
• Converting an XLR mic signal into a digital format for your computer

Most mixers include extra features you won’t need, but that’s fine—you can ignore them.

Software-based alternatives exist, but I prefer an analog mixer for its simplicity and reliability. It doesn’t require updates, avoids compatibility issues with new operating systems, and is a one-time purchase instead of a recurring subscription.

• What to buy: Analog mixer that has at least the following features:
  • XLR mic input
  • USB output
  • 3 tone adjustment dials: bass, mid, treble
  • Dial to adjust input level
  • Dial to adjust output level
• How to position it: As much as I value a clean, uncluttered desk, you may want this item on your desk within arm’s reach. This allows you to adjust the dials you care about easily and have visual feedback (from the sensitivity light meter) about whether the mic is picking up your voice.
• Software to configure: None; plug & play.

Headphones (optional)

Headphones let you hear your audience and any sound effects or notifications without your mic picking them up and creating an echo. They also allow you to monitor your own audio when needed to check levels and sound quality.

I’ll assume you already have headphones, so they’re not included in the shopping list. The key takeaway is simple: use them. Don’t be the person with the annoying echo.

If you prefer not to use headphones, you can lower your speaker volume and mic sensitivity to prevent feedback. Another option is muting your mic when others speak, though this requires more effort and can disrupt natural conversation. While optional, headphones make everything easier and more seamless.

• What to buy: You don’t need to overdo it; even cheap headphones work here. Ideally get something with a cord (or accepts a cord) so you can plug into a ¼” jack on your mixer. I chose to ball out on Bang & Olufsen over-the-ear headphones, which are amongst the most premium consumer grade headphones on the market, because I like quality headphones and am a tech nerd like that. But simpler will work too. You could also connect headphone via Bluetooth, but I find that could complicate your setup.
• How to position it: Not applicable
• Software to configure: None.

Additional items needed to complete the setup

Once you have the core components (lights, cam, and mic), there are a handful of additional ancillary items you will need. These are items that don’t come in the box of the core components, but you nevertheless need.

• Lighting items
  • Mounts. Ideally tripods to mount on the ground to avoid table shake, but if you don’t have enough space then desk mount will work too.
• Cam items
  • HDMI capture card. This converts the data output from the camera into a format that makes the image usable for a webcam. Without it, your webcam would show all the display info seen on the camera viewfinder, such as exposure, etc.
  • Battery cable converter. This converts the battery slot into a cable you can plug into a power outlet, so it is always ready to use. Otherwise, you’d need to periodically unmount the camera, remove the battery, charge it, and put it back in. This would be a massive problem for you if the battery died during a call. Aftermarket brands work just as fine for a fraction of the price as the branded ones.
  • Micro HDMI to HDMI cable. This is a usual cable combination that will allow you to connect the camera output to the HDMI capture card, and into your computer.
  • Memory card. Surprisingly, most cameras do not come with even a base memory card, yet the HDMI capture card setup requires a memory card to operate the settings. You can get the smallest, cheapest card, you just need something.
  • Mount. Ideally tripods to mount on the ground in order to avoid table shake, but if you don’t have enough space then desk mount will work to.
• Mic items
  • XLR to XLR cable for mic. Surprisingly, expensive microphones don’t tend to come with the cable needed to actually use them, so you’ll need this to connect the cable to your mixer.
  • USB-B to USB-C (or USB-A, depending on what port you plug it into) cable for analog mixer. Surprisingly, the mixer doesn’t come with a cable to output the sound to your computer, so you’ll need to buy one. This cable is usually marketed as a “printer cable” but that’s just marketing – it will send the data needed.
  • Boom arm. Ideally you want one that swivels rather than sits in a fixed position, so you can swing it out of the way when you’re not on meetings.
• Optional items
  • Dock. Your computer may have enough ports for everything, but if not, then get a dock. Not all docks are created equal, so you’ll want one that supports the audio and video needs of your particular setup.
  • Cable management. Definitely not required, but I’d recommend you put effort into making a clean workspace. Most people skip this, and the truth is that it only matters if it matters to you. I do recommend it though, because

why look like this:                                            when it could look like this:

Shopping List

Here is a summary of what to buy, and what to budget. I have no affiliation with any of these and am not getting and referral fee for sharing this – these are just what worked best for me. Hopefully they’ll work for you, too.

                                                                                                        I suffered through this endless flow of boxes to open, unpack, repack, and return… so you don’t have to.

Final Thoughts: The Most Important Thing

If you’re like me, you may be wondering, “What is the single most important thing I need to know?” To wrap things up simply and clearly, here’s how to think about each component:

Lighting: the most important thing is control. You need to eliminate natural light and then add in artificial light that is properly calibrated and properly positioned.

Video: the important thing is shallow depth of field. This is the soft background blur that puts the subject (you) in a position of visual prominence. To achieve it requires the right hardware, properly configured, and properly positioned.

Audio: the most important thing is proximity. You need the microphone close to your mouth, in order to (a) capture the full range of your voice, especially the baritone, and (b) enable you to shape the sound to reduce or eliminate room echo. Too many people make the mistake of buying an expensive mic and then placing it too far away.

In Summary

Upgrading your A/V setup beyond a basic USB webcam can feel overwhelming, especially without professional AV skills– but there is a way. This guide shows you that way. The advice in here is based on many, many, many months of buying, trying, returning, and repeating. My goal with this was to fill a gaping void: a guide for people who want to level up their on-screen audio-visual, without production level AV skills.

For a full, behind the scenes walkthrough of my setup, check out this video.

Hopefully this gives you the shortcut to go from lame to fame on screen. Let me know how it goes for you!

~~

Ted Harrington is the #1 bestselling author of Hackable, and a TEDx speaker. He is the Executive Partner at ISE, and co-founder of both Start VRM and IoT Village. Learn more at https://ise.io

[1] To further nail this eye contact concept, you’d want a teleprompter. This goes above and beyond the stated simplicity of this blog, but is worth considering. If you go that route, consider the Elgato Prompter, an all in one device.